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Sørland Railway from Oslo to Kristiansand

For six hours a continuous stream of rivers, lakes, and rocky woods passed the window of the Sørland train on the trip from Oslo to Kristiansand. Wooded hills spanned the horizon in every direction trapping water into countless ponds and lakes. A few farms with sheep, grass, and unplanted fields   Nestled in the valleys.

The land seems as rocky here as up north. When I see piles of logs which have been harvested it’s surprising how small they are compared to the Douglas Fir in Washington and Oregon. These logs look from a distance to be less than a foot in diameter, except for a very small percentage which might be 12 or 14 inches. Or, perhaps they are larger than they appear from the train. Regardless, I wonder whether it’s the rocky soil that prevents them from growing larger.

The most beautiful scenes are the lakes. Tiny islands, simply the peaks of rocky mounds, jut above the water, some with a single tree rooted in the shallow soil. I hope I capture a picture of one of those islands while we are in southern Norway.

Lake along the Sørland Railway in southern Norway

Lake along the Sørland Railway in southern NorwayLake along the Sørland Railway in southern NorwayLake along the Sørland Railway in southern Norway

May 18 – after the celebrations

The sun shone and Oslo was truly warm the day after the May 17 national holiday and children’s parade. People were walking downtown and enjoying the sunshine without warm coats.

As I followed the parade route, Karl Johan’s Gate, which is a popular shopping avenue leading to the palace, workers were setting up dozens of large flower boxes and planting blooming purple pansies and purple and pink petunias. The planters were going along the shopping side of the street and for a long block they reclaimed one lane for restaurants to offer outside seating, which is popular here. Restaurants provide lap blankets to keep patrons warm as they enjoy the coffee and food. Dogs lie quietly next to their people at these outside tables. Norwegians enjoy the fresh air and the subtle warmth of the spring sunshine.

Oslo getting ready for summer

Oslo getting ready for summer on Karl Johan’s Gate

 

Parliament building in Oslo

Parliament building in Oslo

Fountain on Karl Johan's Gate near Parliament

Fountain on Karl Johan’s Gate near Parliament

Island in the fountain pool on Karl Johan's Gate near Parliament

Island in the fountain pool on Karl Johan’s Gate near Parliament

Lion in Oslo

 

Vigeland Sculpture Park

Vigeland Sculpture Park, OsloAfter watching the children’s parade on May 17, we decided to visit Frogner park to see the Vigeland sculptures. It turned out to be an excellent choice. Oslo wasn’t charging for subway rides that day, so when the parade was over we followed a mass of people into the subway and caught the train for Frogner Park.

Many my couples and families dressed up in their bunads were wandering around, enjoying the park too.

Vigeland’s sculptures surprised me. I expected the facial expressions to reveal the subjects’ emotions, but Vigeland evokes joy, fear, jealousy, pride, love, and confidence with physical postures  showing the subjects caught in moments of quiet or boisterous action. here are some photos.

Vigeland Sculpture Park, Oslo

Vigeland Sculpture Park, Oslo

Vigeland Sculpture Park, Oslo

Vigeland Sculpture Park, OsloVigeland Sculpture Park, Oslo

 

Frogner Park is lovely even without the sculptures.

Frognerdammon in the Vigeland Sculpture Park, Oslo

Frognerdammon in the Vigeland Sculpture Park, Oslo

 

May 17 children’s parade in Oslo

Store window display - May 17

May 17 store window display

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Karl Johan's Gate looking toward the palace

Karl Johan’s Gate looking toward the palace

Viking ships

Before arriving in Oslo I read The Ship in the Hill by William A. Sullivan. The novel uses the archaeological records and research on Vikings as a foundation from which he creates an interesting story filling the gaps around the beautiful ornate Oseberg ship. The Oseberg ship is unusual because two women were buried in it and because it and the cart, sledges, and other burial gifts are exquisitely carved.

prow of the Oseberg Viking ship

prow of the Oseberg Viking ship

Oseberg Viking ship

Oseberg Viking ship

Stern of the Oseberg Viking ship

Stern of the Oseberg Viking ship

Weaving tools buried with the Oseberg Viking ship

Weaving tools buried with the Oseberg Viking ship

Wooden chest with brass and tin tacks as embellishments - found with the Oseberg Viking ship

Wooden chest with brass and tin tacks as embellishments – found with the Oseberg Viking ship. It was filled with woven cloth, weaving tools, and thread

Wooden wheel  From an elaborately carved cart found with the Oseberg Viking ship

Wooden wheel From an elaborately carved cart found with the Oseberg Viking ship

Where is our apartment?!

I hadn’t planned to get phone service in Norway, so I downloaded maps to my phone before leaving Seattle. After the long train ride it felt good to be immersed in the jostling crowd as we wove our path toward the apartment. We followed my map to find the apartment we had rented. Not seeing a street sign, I asked a phone company vendor who was folding up her booth for the night whether we were on Fredolsensgate as I thought. She didn’t know.

Dronningensgate 15, #213

Dronningensgate 15, #213

In the next block we found a street sign and knew we were heading the right way. We found an enormous old building with an ornate corner door labeled 15. However the door was gated shut in a way that showed the door was no longer used.

Maybe the 15 was an address for the cross street. I pulled our suitcases down the block again in search of another 15. No luck. Aaaarrrrgg! At this point my subconscious was beginning to form plans for finding a hotel in Oslo on the weekend of the biggest holiday of the year. My mom calmly viewed it as an adventure.

Finally I resorted to looking at the reservation confirmation. Oh! We were supposed to pick up the key at their business office across town. That meant we’d need a taxi. That was one of the moments I really missed having a fully functional phone. But, my mom who doesn’t rely on her phone as a constant connection to places and people, simply suggested we ask someone to call a taxi for us.

The woman working at the cinema called a taxi, and the man offered to look up the address for us on a map. I asked him to look up Dronningsgate 15, the address of our ephemeral apartment, and he did. It was in the next block where we found the 15. So maybe that was our building. I trusted the apartment office would tell us how to get in.

The apartment office was in a building with several other businesses and a security door. A couple with suitcases was trying to get out of the door as I stepped up, so I waited for them to open the door. With two bolts having their own twisting releases it apparently wasn’t easy to figure out how to unlock the door. It took the young man over a minute with his wife offering suggestions before he succeeded. As I watched him I imagined a dire image of a smoke filled building and a crowd of panicked people in the vestibule desperately trying to unlock the door.

When the couple finally escaped, I slipped inside and climbed the stairs to the apartment management company. after getting the key I returned to the cab and we finally arrived at the apartment’s door on a side street. The outer door is unlocked by a chip inside a small plastic card. I waved the chip over the door locks and hardware, over the security intercom, and finally over the magic panel which buzzed the door open.

Dronningensgate 15, #213

Dronningensgate 15, #213

On the second floor we went down a long hallway before it turned left, right, left, right and down another length ending with a door showing an emergency exit sign above it. The room numbers had been getting higher but not up to 213, our room. Mom opened the exit door and found another length of hallway with more rooms. Ours was at the end. Our windows look onto the street on the opposite side of the building from where we entered.